We also sell previously owned trains, specializing in LGB.
Call us for lowest prices.
We have hundreds & hundreds of engines and cars from many manufacturers.
(714) 985-9007

 

 
 

Tips & Suggestions


Remember it’s your railroad, and you should do what pleases you and achieves your desires. Everyone’s interests are different, but let us offer the following suggestions relative to trestling for your consideration.

All things considered, the top priority should always be for reliability. You probably will enjoy trouble free operation rather than continuous intervention. To this end-

* Keep things simple such as track plans. Sometimes the basic loop is the most reliable. No mainline switches to worry about being thrown the wrong way, or just the problematic nature of trains traveling through switches with resulting derailments. If switching is desired, keep them to a minimum on main lines.

* Avoid the desire to have the proverbial up and over/ down under track plan that we all enjoyed with our Lionel trains in the living room as kids. G-scale grades should be kept at about 3% maximum. This means for every 3-inch rise in height you need 100 linear inches of track. So to climb sufficiently high to go up and over the same track (about 12 inches high) would mean about 33 feet of track up, and 33 feet of track back down! The main concern of grades is 1- locos slow when climbing grades, and 2-speed up descending. This can be corrected by manually regulating the throttle, or incorporating specialized wiring controls. But then there is the accelerated wear on the locos gearbox. /Then there is the opportunity for uncoupling if grade transitions are not gradual. If the intent of the up and over is to include a bridge or trestle consider two separate loops; one low and one above. The added benefit of this is now you can have two trains operating simultaneously, incorporate a trestle or tunnel, and not worry about collisions. There is another challenge with curved track in a grade. As the track climbs it goes through a helix, like the threads on a screw. This is to say that the two rails are not in the same plane. This is more noticeable in steep grades and in smaller track radius, and presents opportunities for operating difficulties. If you need trestles on a graded section we can do it. Depending on your grade we can make groups or graduated bent lengths, and segment curved decks to minimize the helix effect.

* Use the largest radius track possible. Trains operate best on the larger radius because they don’t tend to slow, and longer cars such as passenger coaches don’t overhang as much and coupler spacing is not as prominent.

* Avoid steep soil embankments close to your roadbed. Just like full size railroads soft soil tends to wash away or onto track during wet weather. If you can’t avoid this use wood (for soil) or crib (for stone, gravel) to retain and control soil.

* Allow for functional drainage on your railroad. Divert water through trestles, bridges or culverts to avoid washouts.

* Don’t procrastinate—just get started. You can always add or make changes. Just call us, and we will try to answer any questions you may have.

 
 
 
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